Feel free to reach out if you have any questions:
Remember to check out the file names of the photos for more info.

- Access Note: Climbing is still closed at Skeleton Road 5. The OAC is working to address the concerns of the landowner, but the solutions that are being explored will take some time to review. To ensure the opportunity to climb at this convenient and fun location is not permanently lost, please choose to climb elsewhere. (Dec 2, 2016) (Updated November 22, 2017)

 

 

Kailas Frozen Waterfall Extreme Pant Review

Some notes on Conditions in the New Liskeard, North Bay, Restoule - Easter Weekend 2018-04-01

Saturday, March 31 – Triangle Hill, New Liskeard.

- Zero the Hero and Blue Broccolli – not in at all (surprising)

- Palm d’Or and Ucan Tuckem on the ridge appeared to be in

We climbed what may be a new route on the small cliff face closest to the road about 100 m east of Zero the Hero (although it may have been climbed previously by Rob Borotkanics or John Cotgrave – I have to check): Beggar’s Banquet, WI2+, 15 m (Danylo Darewych, Dave Britnell. Climb a fat, bulgy, narrow flow in a bit of a notch up to a tree. We continued another 20 m up the slope and climbed another 8-10 m bulge of ice (not really worth it).

It’s full on winter up there – there was 10 cm of snow Sunday evening)

Monday, April 2 –

Snake in Restoule – fat, solid ice; drippy up top. Still not getting any sun by the time we left at 4:00 pm. Lake ice is solid (no glop, no melt).

- Nothing else was in except the top of the Rattler and the easy, rolling ice amongst the trees 200 m left of the main cliff face (which was really fat and blue).

Dave Britnell wandered over to the small lake (Hazel Lake)250 m east of the big cliff and found a small flow just left of a bald outcrop of rock at the far right (east) end of the lake. We climbed it - Blue Baby, WI2, 9 m.

Some friends of ours were at the Snake on Sunday and reported meeting a trio of climbers who had walked into Idol Verte in Powassan and found no ice; and had then climbed Three Stooges WI 1-2, 60 m at the North Bay cross-country ski grounds.

Saturday, March 24 – Sunday, March 25, 2018 Conditions/New Routes (Danylo)

I drove up to Bancroft on Saturday March 24 and Sunday March 25 with David Wardlaw with the vague idea of climbing late-season ice at north-facing crags - Eagle’s Nest and Blackcat Hill. Instead we ended up doing a fair bit of exploring and climbed some easier-angled, short-ish new routes.

Faraday Lake

The first place we where we climbed some new routes was Faraday Lake west of Bancroft, where we found some fat ice routes hidden behind trees. We called the area the Stan Smiths Wall after the fact that I thought we were going for a short jaunt down a cottage lane to look at a cliff when, in fact, I ended up in the middle of a snow-covered lake on a windy day in my running shoes and light fleece.

Directions

Three kilometres west of Bancroft turn left (west) onto Monck Road from Highway 28. Go 1.4 km along Monck Road to Trout Lake Rd. Turn right onto Trout Lake Rd. Go north along Trout Lake Road for 2 km, then turn right onto Cliff Lane which runs along the south-east end of Faraday Lake. Go down Cliff Lane for 150 m. We parked at a pullout opposite a house just before a steep hill, then walked another 350 m to the end of the lane and walked onto the lake from there. Walk right (north-east) along the south-east shore of Faraday Lake for about 300 m past a cliff face with a cottage on top and into a small bay, then start looking through the trees for ice. The ice will not be visible unless you step under the first row of shoreline trees.

Route Descriptions

The ice is found in two areas about 100 m apart.

40-Love, WI3, 8-10 m (FA Danylo, Darewych, David Wardlaw, March 24, 2018). The first ice you should come across is a set of three fat flows that spill over a short cliff band side by side, set back about 20 m from the shoreline. Solo up an easy short 4 m preliminary step of ice (or walk around it) to a higher ledge below the three flows. Climb whatever flow suits your fancy. The right one is slightly easier angled. The central one and left flows are steeper. We climbed the entral one.

15-Love (WI2) and 30-Love (WI3-), 8-10 m (FA David Wardlaw and Danylo Darewych, March 24, 2018). Another 100 m east and slightly further back from the shoreline is a veritable tennis court of ice flowing down over a series of short rock steps. The main feature is a fat, wide wall of ice, but, in fact, the ice flows almost continuously for 60 m almost all the way from the lakeshore along a streambed/gully up to the top of the slope (where there is an unplowed cottage lane). A lot of this ice is very-easy angled (you can crampon up it) and I suspect it’s usually covered in snow, but it is quite an impressive sight when exposed. We climbed an easier variation on the left (15-Love) and a slightly steeper variation in the middle (30-Love). If you started at a lower step on the right, you could likely follow an almost continuous flow for 25 m.

On Sunday we checked out Baptiste Lake.

There was ice on Don’t Buy the Ranch, Dude but it looked bleached and not touching down. Grand Central looked anemic.

We then checked out the cliff at the very north end of Baptiste Lake, just east of the end of Paradise Landing Rd, but found no ice there.

We then found two ice flows at a small cliff we dubbed Belfast Crag. It is located about 1 km south of the main ice area on the big island on Lavalley Bay. The crag faces north-west.

Baptiste Lake – Belfast Crag Directions/Location

Baptiste Lake is located north-west of Bancroft, Ontario in the Madawaska Highlands.

The directions for the Belfast Crag are mostly the same as for the main Baptiste Lake cliff:

• From downtown Bancroft (intersection of Highways 28 and 62) head north on Highway 62 (North Hastings St.) for 16.5 km.

• Turn left (west) onto North Baptiste Lake Rd. Drive down the North Baptiste Lake Rd. for 9 km (make sure you stay left at the fork at the 4.7 km mark) and park at the side of the road opposite the Belcast Cottages and General Store (closed in winter) or park at the boat launch 400 m back. Look almost directly east across the lake from the Belcast Cottages. The climbs should be visible on the opposite shore, south of a couple of islands. Walk 1.2 km east straight across the lake to the ice climbs.

Baptiste Lake – Belfast Crag Route Descriptions

There are two ice routes about 30 m apart. From a distance the left one looks wider and shorter than the right one, but in fact the left one proves to be longer because it continues under the trees.

The Falls, WI2, 20 m (David Wardlaw, Danylo Darewych, March 26, 2018). A big, wide, fat flow that goes farther than expected through the clifftop trees.

Shankill, WI3-, 13 m (Danylo Darewych, March 26, 2018). A narrower, slightly steeper flow on the right end of the cliff face. The bottom of the ice flow was thin and delaminating on the first ascent. It would be easier under fatter conditions.

The two climbs are named after the republican and loyalist areas of Belfast. Dave misread the sign on the Belcast Cottages where we had parked and named the crag Belfast.

Baptiste Lake – Dog Bay

Also walked into Dog Bay on Bark Lake for a look at the ice there.

Missy Wall – very bleached

Puppy Slabs – slightly leached, slightly blue

Central Cliff routes - Dog’s Breakfast, WI3, 26 m Junkyard Dog, WI3-, 21 m – not in

East Cliff Routes - Runt, WI3, 8 m; Stray Dog, WI2, 19 m; Dog Day Afternoon, WI4, 18 m;

Horndog, WI3, 18 m; Dog Bay Delight, WI3-, 10 m - are all big, fat, blue and steeper than normal


All photos from David Wardlaw

Sunday, March 18 (from Laura) - Timbertrail

There was lots of ice in there still, and great conditions, it's a sweet spot. We did some routes at the main area and the south side and further to the right of the routes listed for the south side in the mini guide.


March Break Report from Danylo:

Sunday, March 11 - Batchawana

Mushy Noodle (WI4, 30m)

1.5km north of Ranger Lake Rd on west nank of Mississagi River (99km north of Thessalon on hwy 129)

- The Mississagi River was running low so we were able to approach along the frozen grass and rocks of the riverbank – much easier than side-sloping up the steep hillsides

- The climb was in good shape, only some sun rot. Good rest cave near the top between vertical pillars (same as FA, but with more ice which made it easier). Stepping out of the cave onto the pillar is exciting.


Monday, March 12 – Brock’s Rd, north of Kynoch

Rainmaker, WI3, 52 m was still in excellent shape with only a little rot in the middle section

Crown Jewel never came in this year

Tuesday, March 13 – Canyonlands trek #2

Hauling sleds with camping gear into Canyonlands in the bush well north of Kynoch with Chris Talbot and Janet Wong.

Started hiking just after noon. It took us about 2.5 hours to do the 5 km. The snow on the trail was solid - somebody had been down it on ATV or snowmobile at some point this winter, so travel was fairly quick and painless. Found a good spot to cross the bridgeless creek only about 25 m downstream from the trail. We set up camp next to the Trapper's cabin and then hiked over to check out the climbs at the north end of Blinko (1.5 km). The big unclimbed one was baked out, so we made do with a repeat ascent of Electric Toothbrush (WI2, 55m up a gully with snow tromping in the middle). Cooked in the dark. Cold night (-13).

Wednesday, March 14. My malfunctioning stove meant I lost most of my gas through a leaky valve and we didn't have enough fuel to finish boiling water. Chris had a propane/butane stove, but since the creek was frozen we ended up having to melt snow to boil water and he ran out of fuel as well. I improvised a wood fire stove out of a rusted out pail to finish boiling water, but that took time, so we set out only at 11:00 for the Upper Lake where the big ice climbs are. Then Chris fell through the bog and thoroughly soaked his boot. He decided to head out back to the cars. Janet and I continued on. It took us 2 hours and 20 min to cover the 3 km to the Upper Lake. Hard going - snow was not supportive, plus steep uphill. The Hunter (WI4-, 50m) looked to be mostly in OK shape, but I wasn't about to climb it in full on sun at 3:00. The right side variation of the Hunter looks really steep (WI5). The other big unclimbed line was baked out and unclimbable. The Farmer (WI2) wasn't in great shape either, so we ended up climbing a small, easy flow of good ice Janet found further down the cliff line (Birdwatcher WI2, 15 m – Danylo Darewych, Janet Wong). We got back to camp in an hour and 15 minutes (much easier going downhill down a broken trail). Packed up camp and left at 7:11 pm. Made it back to the car in 1 hour and 25 minutes just as it got completely dark.

Thursday, March 15 – Aman-Ta, WI3-WI5, 45 m at km 17 of Mile 38 Road in Batchawana with Chris Talbot and Janet Wong.

- Beauty of a climb in very good shape (faces north). Lots of very steep lines on the second tier. The neighbouring climbs were also in good shape.

Friday, March 16 – Blue Avenjure, WI3+, 100 m at km 4 of Mile 38 Road in Batchawana with Chris Talbot and Janet Wong.

- Another very good line, up a gully feature. Ice was still mostly in good shape (despite surface bleach), even though it faces south, because it is partially shaded in the gully. Climbed it in three pitches. Also climbed the steeper variation that heads up left after the first pitch (engaging; well worth doing).

Saturday, March 17 – Km13 of Mile 38 Rd in Batchawana.

- We went in with the aim of climbing Gilgamesh, WI3+, 70 m?, but the first pitch was bleached, hollow and delaminating (I backed off after 7 m).

- Climbed Divine Encounter, WI3, 10 m and Divine Intervention, WI3, 25 m instead. Both were in decent shape, especially Divine Intervention, which is a very wide, fat flow.

Shaun Parent says that Mile 38 Rd will be plowed for the next couple of years (it’s normally only plowed to km 4), so take the opportunity to check out the ice climbs there.

Sunday, March 18 –

- Hiked around Stone Ridge in Elliot Lake – no ice. The ice in Elliot Lake proper was baked out. Drove along Lee Valley Rd between Massey and Espanola. Found an easy-angled ice flow about 12.5 km east of Massey (after crossing the bridge), just south of the road across a small creek. FA of Buzzling Blue, WI2-, 20 m, (FA Janet Wong, Danylo Darewych).

- Also stopped to check out the ice under the communications tower, just west of the Espanola turn-off on the south side of Highway 17. The old Southern Ontario Ice guidebook quoted “A recent description: ‘Poor ice in overgrown bush. Not recommended. Ugh!’” That’s an unfair description – what we saw looked quite interesting. There were 5 lines on that cliff: a couple of interesting slots/gullies and some steep, narrow columns (not quite touching down) with cracks for mixed tool placements next to them. Only one of the climbs was in leadable shape (at least by me) – a tricky, thin, narrow, twisting flow up a notch on the left side of the crag (WI3 or 3+, 16 m). Worth a visit.


February 18, 2018 - Panther Gorge (Brent and Laura)

Andriy, a quick note from last weekends fun, which is seems like we were all having:

Kevin MacKenzie, Laura Duncan, and I put up about 600' of new climbing in the Panther Gorge, between Haystack and Marcy in the Adirondacks. We left the parking lot at 4:25am returning at 10:20pm after about 18 hours and 18 miles of travel. In that time we found hard trails, soft snow off trail, and many options for new lines. We settled on a route that split into 2 distinct lines after 220'. Laura led to below the split, then Kevin and I moved the belay up to the split where Kevin led the left side. This is a stellar pitch of ice in a unique setting with interesting climbing. Really a gem. In Kevin's words, "Multiplication Gully and Haggis and Cold Toast (on steroids)." Sweet.
The 3 of us rapped to the junction and got the rope stuck on an offending tree limb. I went up to unstick it while Laura and Kevin froze. Laura headed down to make some soup, and I led the right side, adding a 180' pitch. Kevin followed finishing in a tiny alcove that was "comfy" for 2. This pitch, though fun, was not as good as the left side. However, grade 5 variations are there to be plucked.
A great day out overall and made possible by Kevin's planning and hard work. The names Charybdis (left line, 400', WI4) and Scylla (right line, 180', WI4) were chosen, after Homer's sirens.

February 18, 2018 - Maineline (with Peter H)

The climb faces SE. We picked a nearly perfect day, just under zero and partly cloudy. The climb still ended up dripping. Beautiful setting in the heart of snowmobile country. The crux second pitch featured a column that just barely touched down. A grande experience - thanks Pete!

February 17, 2018 - Frivolite/Orford (with Peter)

Beautiful climb. No wonder it was long heralded as one of THE classic mixed climbs, back in the day when putting steel to stone wasn't mixed, but just what needed to be done. The trail was well stomped out, and the climb was in great shape. It faces south-ish and shouldn't be missed.

February 11, 2018 Papineau Roadside

While the ice on the thin dribbles may seem to have gotten smaller, it remains dense and sticky, as it remains in the shade. None of the climbs seem to have received a lot of traffic of late - was a treat. Zippadeedoda is in FA condition (i.e. thick smear of ice on the right, and the corner crack on the left. Wafer Thin, Naked Soul, Streets Cry Freedom, Sticks And Stones aren't there at all.

February 10, 2018 Diamond Lake

Guardian Angel is in good shape, including Guardian Angel Right.

WED is missing the second quarter of the route. Where Wimps Dare is formed to the top, but delaminated up there.

Malachite Brocade was thick, while the rest the lines on the wall were thin.

Smith Family Robinson, Every Day is Training Turn for the Douche almost entirely ice lines.

February 9, 2018, Killarney (Robert H)

Lake Kakise was awsome - West Echo Beach was a highlight. Definitely fat!

February 9, 2018 Etobicoke Creek Smears (DD)

The two lines are in, but th ecreek isn't frozen.

February 3/4, 2018 Algoma (Mutiple reports, photos from Graeme and Dante)

Granary Lake (starting from the small stuff on the left)

Easy Pickings, WI3-, 17 m + 12 m – in fat
V0, WI2- – in
Hero Worship, WI3- – in
Energizer Bunny, WI3, 13 m - in
Go Go Beavers, WI3, 30+ m – wide, but lots of crappy, sun-baked, aerated ice; a line of solid ice on the left

Most of the lines/variations on the big second flow are in (it’s big and fat)
The Goot, the Bad and the Ugly, WI3, 40+m – in
Hats Off to the Sledheads, WI2, 42 m– in fat; good ice
Gong Show, WI3, 40+ m – in
Funnilingus
, WI4, 45 m – not in; very thin and baked
Final Frontier
, WI5-, 45 m – not in
Naked Edge, 42 m – in; steep and hard ice (more of a WI5 than WI4+)
Speed Bump, WI3+, 45 m – in, fat
Breaking All the House Rules, WI3, 45 m – in, fat; good plastic ice
…Waive the Rules, WI3+, 40 m – in, fat
Slush Fund, WI3, 20 m – in, looked good from afar
Clueless in Algoma, WI3, 18 m – in, looked good from afar

Also climbed a new route:
Long May You Run, WI4-, 5.3, 15 m (Danylo Darewych, Randy Kielbasiewicz, Feb. 3, 2018).
Located another 500 m along the north lakeshore past Slush Fund/Clueless. Go around another point in a small bay to a short cliff band set 40 m back from the lake’s edge. The climb is on the left end of the cliff band just right of a right-facing corner. Climb a steep, narrow, thin flow, stepping left the corner on rock ledges near the top (cams useful), then back right around an overhang to exit. The ice does not form to the top every year.


Intersection Rock
The ice at Intersection Rock does not look to have built up much since late December.
Cunning Stunt, WI3, 30 m – in, lots of sun-rotted ice in the upper section. Bring long screws
70s Bush, WI2, 35m – in, good ice
The Sunday After-Church Crochet and Knitting Club, WI3, 30 m – not in
One Good Screw WI3-4, 36 m – in, hard, brittle ice
Sometimes She Cries WI4, 20 m – not in,
Big Boy Panties WI3-, 12 m – in

Shotgun Cliff

Lucky Misdirection, WI3+, 18 m – in
The Guy from the Car, WI3, 16 m
Valentine’s Day Present, WI2, 14 m – in
My Crampy Valentine, WI2, 12 m - in
Rainmaker
, WI3, 53 m – in great shape
Crown Jewel
, WI5-, 50 m – not even close to touching down;
Cousin It – not in


Constance Lake

Salve for the Wounded Pride, 23 m – in good shape; solid WI4 up the central columns; easier WI3+ line on the left
Wagon Wheels, WI2, 20 m – not in
Kindergarten Column – not in
Fat 7-Year Old – not in
Waiting for Godot, WI4+, 50 m – not in, just thin baubles; most of the ice has spilled further right and is hanging in a big suspended curtain (almost touching down) above the line of the mixed route Trepidation
AWOL
, M5+, 25 m – this mixed line actually has a large column hanging over it
The Waitress, M5+, 17 m – has ice at the exit, as usual
Right-Side Gully, WI3+, 40 m - in
Non-stick Coating, WI3, 45 m – honking fat
Wind Wall – not in, just a thin veneer of ice
Dreams of Hot Babes, WI3, 22 m – in.


February 4, 2018 - Bear Lake (Mike and Jon)

Thin. But climbable. Bottom of Frankenhooker was real thin on the lower slab. And then featured tiered columns up top: no more than 3 feet wide and 6 inches thick. Pretty cool.

Ultrahooker had no ice to start. The dagger in the rock corner was about a foot wide, but continued upwards to narrow and thin columns higher up.

February 4, 2018 - Diamond Lake

Guardian Angel - multiple lines.

Guardian Angel Right - fat column!!!

Every Day is Training - good.

Dirtyer Harryer - bolt placements have been adjusted - good to go - now just wait for a bit more ice to form up in the summit chimneys.

WED - beautiful.

Peach Sparrow - dry rock to a solid curtain at the top. In sweet shape!

Between Egos and Wimps - ultra lean column down low, to a dry exit.

Malachite Brochade et al - there, but growing.

Kermit's Finger - pretty big.

Tammy Baker's Face - very aesthetic. Multiple ribbons running down the wall; plenty of variations.

February 3/4, 2018 - Mt Washington Valley Ice Fest (Peter Hoang)

Was great to catch-up with friends and meet new ones at the MWV Ice Fest. Conditions right now in NH are fat, fat, fat. Not sure how I feel about having climbed Remission Direct - yes, it's a great route, but it definitely wasn't in proud first ascent condition. It even took gear!

February 4, 2018 - Eagle's Nest

Blue Angel - a nice face & gulley excursion all the way to the trees.

The NF of the Eiger - tricky down low, but leads to the steep (and well-formed) headwall.

Dirty Harry - fat all the way! ...except for the broken off curtain at the start.

February 4, 2018 - McRae Lake (Robert Hughson)

Made the trek into McRae over the last few weekends to check out if anything climbable had formed up. We came a way having climbed a fun formation in a section of cliff without ay rock routes, maybe 15m. It's located on the RHS of the mian cliff, around the corner from the summer route "Johnson, 5.9". I saw several routes along the shoreline between 10m and 30m - both mixed and ice.

This is What You Want, This is What You Get, M5, 15m (Robert Hughson, Josh Zhu)

Conditions were nice and thick up top and gradually thinning out to bare rock towards the bottom.

February 2, 2018 - Danylo Darewych

We found a new sector just past the Blood Wall on Bark Lake. Here's an updated guide to the area.

January 28, 2018 - Gatineau (PS)

New sector, sooo close to home. Right next to P8 in the park.

La Fourche du Diable, WI3+ 15m.

Multiple lines possible with Fourchette Piercing (M4, 2 bolts) going right in between the two ice lines being the most aesthetic and interesting.

January 28, 2018 - Lake Willoughby

Drove don to Vermont on a hunch the rarer routes had formed after the temperature fluctuations. The pics speak for itself. Conditions are expected to grow.

January 28, 2018 - Haliburton Update (Daniel McKay)

The area is in good shape generally. The freeze-thaw cycles and rain around TO haven't had much impact.

35 Corridor - Kushog looked good from the road. Blue Boy, Caramel Coating, Sadly Unknown and Excocist all looked great. Blue Pillar was not touching down. St. Nora had multiple options, some thin, but the furtherst south line near the narrows was in with a couple of options.

Livingstone had a couple:

While looks to be in, but the mixed routes seem to be in thin shape. Not sure what's going on with the Sentinel. Was pretty lean.

January 27, 2018 - Bear Lake (Stas and Daniel) - New route

The Harlot Trilogy now has a sequel! We added a few more bolts to the old projects - it goes!

Young Lust WI5+, M9 R (Stas Beskin and Daniel Martian)

Climb the first pitch of Frankenhooker, then traverse to the left along the ledge to the anchors below The Shining. Climb out the left side of the overhang past bolts. (Stiff). Once on the ice, traverse leftwards and establish a belay down and left of the candlestick. A blue or yellow camalot help protect the belay, because placing screws in the pencil isn't recommended. From the trees 70m gets you back to the ledge belay. One more rap gets you back to the base.

January 24, 2019 - Bear Lake (Peter)

Frankenhooker is full-value right now.

January 9, 2017 - Battlefield (Tiago)

January 4, 2018 - General Madawaska Area (CF)

Bancroft ice had lots of snow on it. Little change since last week. Virtually nothing on Old Laughing Lady. Diamond Lake is starting to come in...

Previously unreported from early November - South Tasso Lake New Route

House of Honey Badger M8+, WI4+, 35m (Nov 18, 2017 - Stas Beskin and Gerin Ma)

A rope stretcher - a 70 just barely gets you down to the belay ledge. It starts to the right of Ashokan's Farewell and follow's a generous line of bolts (painted black to minimize impact) to the top. Has it all, really! Shares the same tree for the anchor.

December 31, 2017 - Kynoch Ice (DD)

Shower Stall Wall:
- Selson Blue,WI3, and Baby Shampoo, WI2, are both fat and almost 60 m of continuous ice (both have sections of very easy-angled almost walking ice. Ice was plastic in upper half, despite -20 temperatures
- Sub-par Plumbing and Irish Spring aren't in

Foot of the Shotgun Crag:
- Lucky Misdirection (WI3+, 18 m), The Guy from the Car (WI3, 16 m), Valentine's Day Present (WI2, 13 m), My Crampy Valentine (WI2, 12 m) - all good

Shotgun:
Rainmaker, WI3, 53 m - in
Crown Jewel - not in.
Cousin It - as usual - not in. Lots of ice in the middle, but just glaze in the bottom section. Could goot your way into the ice if really motivated...

December 30, 2017 - North of Thessalon (DD)

Bog Wall (Highway 129 86 km north of Thessalon): everything(Noodlin, Smash and Grab, Swimming with the Fishes, Splash and Grab) looked fat from the road. There are some even lines I've not seen before. "Anyone care to drive up and meet me?"

MBO (Highway 129 81 km north of Thessalon):
- Redemption, WI3, 50 m - in fat shape. There is a second pitch above
- Thievery, WI3+, 50 m - not quite in
Didn't check the rest of the climbs

Dude: Guess what we saw??? Wow!

December 29, 2017 - Stoney Creek (DD)

Highway 129, 50 km north of Thessalon:

Hungry Man: in fat, in full value WI4 shape
Lean Quisine: looks more like WI5- than WI 3+
Ozzy's Chute/Classy Gully: 45 m of fun; plastic ice in -17
4Arm: looked to be in from the road.

 

December 28, 2017 - Iron Bridge (Danylo and Chris T)

It was really cold in the morning so Chris and I spent some time driving around looking at things:
Duborne Lake: We walked in to take a look. Not quite in, although you could probably sneak up one of the longer lines
Constance Lake: Constance Setbacks (aka Waiting for Goddot) looked to be in fat from the road. A couple of thin pillars are hanging down on the right side of the cliff as well!
Trapper's Cliff: Mixolydian Gully, Adagio and B-Flat are in, Cold Pop and Little White River Stout are not.
Endikai Riverside: ABBDCPO, Little Bump, Endikaiser, Sodden and Secret Lasagna are all in. River isn't frozen to cross though. Hip waders may or may not work.
Intersection Rock: almost everything appears to be in. We climbed Cunning Stunt on the far right.


December 27, 2017 - Searchmont (Danylo and Yannick)

Climbed at Searchmont with Yannick (nice meeting you!!!) in brutally cold conditions (-30 on the car thermometer at 10:00 AM). We did one climb and then returned to the cars! Yeesh!

December 24, 2017 - Papineau Roadside (CF, PH AK)

Consolation Prize is fun. Clip and Go has lots of ice on it right now, and could actually be climbed 90% on ice, but be super gentle, so everyone has a chance to get on it like this. Blessed Rage is coming along and tempting, but does anyone remember if there's gear at the top horizontal, or is it welded shut??? ;-)

There's a new bakery, tea and biscuit place in Maynooth. Worth a stop on the way back.

December 23, 2017 - Hidden Gems (CF, PH, AK)

The lake was solid enough to cross, although I did keep a tool handy... Jade was in brittle shape. Black Pearl was on the tough side. The two Diamonds were lean.. and even Onyx was on the thin side. (Fools Seldom Differ looks to be in cool shape.) But it is to be expected, given it's still December.

December 18, 2017 - Papineau Roadside (Chris)

Very cool crag. Consolation Pirze varied from 3+ to 4+ depending on the line. Finished up with Clip and Go, which I think might have been a bit thin on ice, but was sifficient.

December 18, 2017 - Granary Lake

From Klaus at the Birch Lodge on Granary Lake

December 17, 2017 - Azure Mtn, Adirondacks(Pascal and Marco)

Well, our attempt to reach the main cliff failed but we found the beginner’s Sidewalk Café Area. And it was perfect because we were happy to top rope like beginners. Going back to explore the main crag this Wednesday, stay tuned!

December 17, 2017 - Eagle's Nest (Robert Hughson)

The Curtain is looking great. Dirty Harry is pretty mixed. Roller Coaster was decent.

December 16, 2017 - Watt Lake (Mugur, Chris, AK)

Beauty bluebird day. And crisp. Watt Lake is in thin, but the ice that is on the face is dense and well bonded. The face holds snow, making for an added challenge. (Right after the trailhead, stay right to avoid wet feet.)

Madhouse Bryant - pretty bare.
Fair-Weather Climber - pretty bare, with a bush for added challenge.
Giddy Girls - awsome.
New Diesel - in good shape for the left exit.
Holy Hannah - not close to touching down. Need some serious thaw-freeze for it to form up.
Prisoner 24601 - thin exit pillar, maybe bring some gear to supplement the bolts.

December 10, 2017 - Eagle's Nest (DD)

Thin conditions in Bamcroft today. Looks like the ice that formed two weeks ago became unbonded, and the new ice that is forming hasn't quite re-attached the outer shell. Lots of hollow ice and water flowing behind almost everything. 

Lower Rollercoaster - thin, delaminated ice, no pro. We scrambled up the backside to the ledge. Upper Rollercoaster - turf sticks and enough solid ice to squeeze through the notch to the top.

We didn't lead anything on the Curtain - didn't look like there was much solid pro. Dropped top ropes on the right side of Men Without Hats (the left side was a hollow tube with water spilling down it) and the right side of Hollow Victory. The Jetstream pillar has formed up, but is candled and delaminated up top.

Nothing else was in.


December 10, 2017 (Daniel back from the Rockies)

The snow pack did not cooperate, so we had to stay away from avi prone slopes. Opted for the good old Ghost. RBD is always a classic. Cryophobia is my new favourite mixed rig!

December 09, 2017 (Jeremy and Stas, breathin in fresh Rockies air)

Weeping Wall is in good shape. Can you guess what else we climbed? What a treat to climb this testpiece on TR.

December 08, 2017 (Justin)

Just passing thorugh my old stompin grounds. Didn't have a chance to swing the tools, bit figured I'd share a pic.

November 21, 2017 - Eagle's Nest

Unverified... picture could be a tease... who will be the first on etempted to drive out in search of ice???