Feel free to reach out if you have any questions:
Remember to check out the file names of the photos for more info.

- Access Note: Climbing is still closed at Skeleton Road 5. The OAC is working to address the concerns of the landowner, but the solutions that are being explored will take some time to review. To ensure the opportunity to climb at this convenient and fun location is not permanently lost, please choose to climb elsewhere. (Dec 2, 2016) (Updated November 22, 2017)



Kailas Frozen Waterfall Extreme Pant Review

February 18, 2018 - Panther Gorge (Brent and Laura)

Andriy, a quick note from last weekends fun, which is seems like we were all having:

Kevin MacKenzie, Laura Duncan, and I put up about 600' of new climbing in the Panther Gorge, between Haystack and Marcy in the Adirondacks. We left the parking lot at 4:25am returning at 10:20pm after about 18 hours and 18 miles of travel. In that time we found hard trails, soft snow off trail, and many options for new lines. We settled on a route that split into 2 distinct lines after 220'. Laura led to below the split, then Kevin and I moved the belay up to the split where Kevin led the left side. This is a stellar pitch of ice in a unique setting with interesting climbing. Really a gem. In Kevin's words, "Multiplication Gully and Haggis and Cold Toast (on steroids)." Sweet.
The 3 of us rapped to the junction and got the rope stuck on an offending tree limb. I went up to unstick it while Laura and Kevin froze. Laura headed down to make some soup, and I led the right side, adding a 180' pitch. Kevin followed finishing in a tiny alcove that was "comfy" for 2. This pitch, though fun, was not as good as the left side. However, grade 5 variations are there to be plucked.
A great day out overall and made possible by Kevin's planning and hard work. The names Charybdis (left line, 400', WI4) and Scylla (right line, 180', WI4) were chosen, after Homer's sirens.

February 18, 2018 - Maineline (with Peter H)

The climb faces SE. We picked a nearly perfect day, just under zero and partly cloudy. The climb still ended up dripping. Beautiful setting in the heart of snowmobile country. The crux second pitch featured a column that just barely touched down. A grande experience - thanks Pete!

February 17, 2018 - Frivolite/Orford (with Peter)

Beautiful climb. No wonder it was long heralded as one of THE classic mixed climbs, back in the day when putting steel to stone wasn't mixed, but just what needed to be done. The trail was well stomped out, and the climb was in great shape. It faces south-ish and shouldn't be missed.

February 11, 2018 Papineau Roadside

While the ice on the thin dribbles may seem to have gotten smaller, it remains dense and sticky, as it remains in the shade. None of the climbs seem to have received a lot of traffic of late - was a treat. Zippadeedoda is in FA condition (i.e. thick smear of ice on the right, and the corner crack on the left. Wafer Thin, Naked Soul, Streets Cry Freedom, Sticks And Stones aren't there at all.

February 10, 2018 Diamond Lake

Guardian Angel is in good shape, including Guardian Angel Right.

WED is missing the second quarter of the route. Where Wimps Dare is formed to the top, but delaminated up there.

Malachite Brocade was thick, while the rest the lines on the wall were thin.

Smith Family Robinson, Every Day is Training Turn for the Douche almost entirely ice lines.

February 9, 2018, Killarney (Robert H)

Lake Kakise was awsome - West Echo Beach was a highlight. Definitely fat!

February 9, 2018 Etobicoke Creek Smears (DD)

The two lines are in, but th ecreek isn't frozen.

February 3/4, 2018 Algoma (Mutiple reports, photos from Graeme and Dante)

Granary Lake (starting from the small stuff on the left)

Easy Pickings, WI3-, 17 m + 12 m – in fat
V0, WI2- – in
Hero Worship, WI3- – in
Energizer Bunny, WI3, 13 m - in
Go Go Beavers, WI3, 30+ m – wide, but lots of crappy, sun-baked, aerated ice; a line of solid ice on the left

Most of the lines/variations on the big second flow are in (it’s big and fat)
The Goot, the Bad and the Ugly, WI3, 40+m – in
Hats Off to the Sledheads, WI2, 42 m– in fat; good ice
Gong Show, WI3, 40+ m – in
, WI4, 45 m – not in; very thin and baked
Final Frontier
, WI5-, 45 m – not in
Naked Edge, 42 m – in; steep and hard ice (more of a WI5 than WI4+)
Speed Bump, WI3+, 45 m – in, fat
Breaking All the House Rules, WI3, 45 m – in, fat; good plastic ice
…Waive the Rules, WI3+, 40 m – in, fat
Slush Fund, WI3, 20 m – in, looked good from afar
Clueless in Algoma, WI3, 18 m – in, looked good from afar

Also climbed a new route:
Long May You Run, WI4-, 5.3, 15 m (Danylo Darewych, Randy Kielbasiewicz, Feb. 3, 2018).
Located another 500 m along the north lakeshore past Slush Fund/Clueless. Go around another point in a small bay to a short cliff band set 40 m back from the lake’s edge. The climb is on the left end of the cliff band just right of a right-facing corner. Climb a steep, narrow, thin flow, stepping left the corner on rock ledges near the top (cams useful), then back right around an overhang to exit. The ice does not form to the top every year.

Intersection Rock
The ice at Intersection Rock does not look to have built up much since late December.
Cunning Stunt, WI3, 30 m – in, lots of sun-rotted ice in the upper section. Bring long screws
70s Bush, WI2, 35m – in, good ice
The Sunday After-Church Crochet and Knitting Club, WI3, 30 m – not in
One Good Screw WI3-4, 36 m – in, hard, brittle ice
Sometimes She Cries WI4, 20 m – not in,
Big Boy Panties WI3-, 12 m – in

Shotgun Cliff

Lucky Misdirection, WI3+, 18 m – in
The Guy from the Car, WI3, 16 m
Valentine’s Day Present, WI2, 14 m – in
My Crampy Valentine, WI2, 12 m - in
, WI3, 53 m – in great shape
Crown Jewel
, WI5-, 50 m – not even close to touching down;
Cousin It – not in

Constance Lake

Salve for the Wounded Pride, 23 m – in good shape; solid WI4 up the central columns; easier WI3+ line on the left
Wagon Wheels, WI2, 20 m – not in
Kindergarten Column – not in
Fat 7-Year Old – not in
Waiting for Godot, WI4+, 50 m – not in, just thin baubles; most of the ice has spilled further right and is hanging in a big suspended curtain (almost touching down) above the line of the mixed route Trepidation
, M5+, 25 m – this mixed line actually has a large column hanging over it
The Waitress, M5+, 17 m – has ice at the exit, as usual
Right-Side Gully, WI3+, 40 m - in
Non-stick Coating, WI3, 45 m – honking fat
Wind Wall – not in, just a thin veneer of ice
Dreams of Hot Babes, WI3, 22 m – in.

February 4, 2018 - Bear Lake (Mike and Jon)

Thin. But climbable. Bottom of Frankenhooker was real thin on the lower slab. And then featured tiered columns up top: no more than 3 feet wide and 6 inches thick. Pretty cool.

Ultrahooker had no ice to start. The dagger in the rock corner was about a foot wide, but continued upwards to narrow and thin columns higher up.

February 4, 2018 - Diamond Lake

Guardian Angel - multiple lines.

Guardian Angel Right - fat column!!!

Every Day is Training - good.

Dirtyer Harryer - bolt placements have been adjusted - good to go - now just wait for a bit more ice to form up in the summit chimneys.

WED - beautiful.

Peach Sparrow - dry rock to a solid curtain at the top. In sweet shape!

Between Egos and Wimps - ultra lean column down low, to a dry exit.

Malachite Brochade et al - there, but growing.

Kermit's Finger - pretty big.

Tammy Baker's Face - very aesthetic. Multiple ribbons running down the wall; plenty of variations.

February 3/4, 2018 - Mt Washington Valley Ice Fest (Peter Hoang)

Was great to catch-up with friends and meet new ones at the MWV Ice Fest. Conditions right now in NH are fat, fat, fat. Not sure how I feel about having climbed Remission Direct - yes, it's a great route, but it definitely wasn't in proud first ascent condition. It even took gear!

February 4, 2018 - Eagle's Nest

Blue Angel - a nice face & gulley excursion all the way to the trees.

The NF of the Eiger - tricky down low, but leads to the steep (and well-formed) headwall.

Dirty Harry - fat all the way! ...except for the broken off curtain at the start.

February 4, 2018 - McRae Lake (Robert Hughson)

Made the trek into McRae over the last few weekends to check out if anything climbable had formed up. We came a way having climbed a fun formation in a section of cliff without ay rock routes, maybe 15m. It's located on the RHS of the mian cliff, around the corner from the summer route "Johnson, 5.9". I saw several routes along the shoreline between 10m and 30m - both mixed and ice.

This is What You Want, This is What You Get, M5, 15m (Robert Hughson, Josh Zhu)

Conditions were nice and thick up top and gradually thinning out to bare rock towards the bottom.

February 2, 2018 - Danylo Darewych

We found a new sector just past the Blood Wall on Bark Lake. Here's an updated guide to the area.

January 28, 2018 - Gatineau (PS)

New sector, sooo close to home. Right next to P8 in the park.

La Fourche du Diable, WI3+ 15m.

Multiple lines possible with Fourchette Piercing (M4, 2 bolts) going right in between the two ice lines being the most aesthetic and interesting.

January 28, 2018 - Lake Willoughby

Drove don to Vermont on a hunch the rarer routes had formed after the temperature fluctuations. The pics speak for itself. Conditions are expected to grow.

January 28, 2018 - Haliburton Update (Daniel McKay)

The area is in good shape generally. The freeze-thaw cycles and rain around TO haven't had much impact.

35 Corridor - Kushog looked good from the road. Blue Boy, Caramel Coating, Sadly Unknown and Excocist all looked great. Blue Pillar was not touching down. St. Nora had multiple options, some thin, but the furtherst south line near the narrows was in with a couple of options.

Livingstone had a couple:

While looks to be in, but the mixed routes seem to be in thin shape. Not sure what's going on with the Sentinel. Was pretty lean.

January 27, 2018 - Bear Lake (Stas and Daniel) - New route

The Harlot Trilogy now has a sequel! We added a few more bolts to the old projects - it goes!

Young Lust WI5+, M9 R (Stas Beskin and Daniel Martian)

Climb the first pitch of Frankenhooker, then traverse to the left along the ledge to the anchors below The Shining. Climb out the left side of the overhang past bolts. (Stiff). Once on the ice, traverse leftwards and establish a belay down and left of the candlestick. A blue or yellow camalot help protect the belay, because placing screws in the pencil isn't recommended. From the trees 70m gets you back to the ledge belay. One more rap gets you back to the base.

January 24, 2019 - Bear Lake (Peter)

Frankenhooker is full-value right now.

January 9, 2017 - Battlefield (Tiago)

January 4, 2018 - General Madawaska Area (CF)

Bancroft ice had lots of snow on it. Little change since last week. Virtually nothing on Old Laughing Lady. Diamond Lake is starting to come in...

Previously unreported from early November - South Tasso Lake New Route

House of Honey Badger M8+, WI4+, 35m (Nov 18, 2017 - Stas Beskin and Gerin Ma)

A rope stretcher - a 70 just barely gets you down to the belay ledge. It starts to the right of Ashokan's Farewell and follow's a generous line of bolts (painted black to minimize impact) to the top. Has it all, really! Shares the same tree for the anchor.

December 31, 2017 - Kynoch Ice (DD)

Shower Stall Wall:
- Selson Blue,WI3, and Baby Shampoo, WI2, are both fat and almost 60 m of continuous ice (both have sections of very easy-angled almost walking ice. Ice was plastic in upper half, despite -20 temperatures
- Sub-par Plumbing and Irish Spring aren't in

Foot of the Shotgun Crag:
- Lucky Misdirection (WI3+, 18 m), The Guy from the Car (WI3, 16 m), Valentine's Day Present (WI2, 13 m), My Crampy Valentine (WI2, 12 m) - all good

Rainmaker, WI3, 53 m - in
Crown Jewel - not in.
Cousin It - as usual - not in. Lots of ice in the middle, but just glaze in the bottom section. Could goot your way into the ice if really motivated...

December 30, 2017 - North of Thessalon (DD)

Bog Wall (Highway 129 86 km north of Thessalon): everything(Noodlin, Smash and Grab, Swimming with the Fishes, Splash and Grab) looked fat from the road. There are some even lines I've not seen before. "Anyone care to drive up and meet me?"

MBO (Highway 129 81 km north of Thessalon):
- Redemption, WI3, 50 m - in fat shape. There is a second pitch above
- Thievery, WI3+, 50 m - not quite in
Didn't check the rest of the climbs

Dude: Guess what we saw??? Wow!

December 29, 2017 - Stoney Creek (DD)

Highway 129, 50 km north of Thessalon:

Hungry Man: in fat, in full value WI4 shape
Lean Quisine: looks more like WI5- than WI 3+
Ozzy's Chute/Classy Gully: 45 m of fun; plastic ice in -17
4Arm: looked to be in from the road.


December 28, 2017 - Iron Bridge (Danylo and Chris T)

It was really cold in the morning so Chris and I spent some time driving around looking at things:
Duborne Lake: We walked in to take a look. Not quite in, although you could probably sneak up one of the longer lines
Constance Lake: Constance Setbacks (aka Waiting for Goddot) looked to be in fat from the road. A couple of thin pillars are hanging down on the right side of the cliff as well!
Trapper's Cliff: Mixolydian Gully, Adagio and B-Flat are in, Cold Pop and Little White River Stout are not.
Endikai Riverside: ABBDCPO, Little Bump, Endikaiser, Sodden and Secret Lasagna are all in. River isn't frozen to cross though. Hip waders may or may not work.
Intersection Rock: almost everything appears to be in. We climbed Cunning Stunt on the far right.

December 27, 2017 - Searchmont (Danylo and Yannick)

Climbed at Searchmont with Yannick (nice meeting you!!!) in brutally cold conditions (-30 on the car thermometer at 10:00 AM). We did one climb and then returned to the cars! Yeesh!

December 24, 2017 - Papineau Roadside (CF, PH AK)

Consolation Prize is fun. Clip and Go has lots of ice on it right now, and could actually be climbed 90% on ice, but be super gentle, so everyone has a chance to get on it like this. Blessed Rage is coming along and tempting, but does anyone remember if there's gear at the top horizontal, or is it welded shut??? ;-)

There's a new bakery, tea and biscuit place in Maynooth. Worth a stop on the way back.

December 23, 2017 - Hidden Gems (CF, PH, AK)

The lake was solid enough to cross, although I did keep a tool handy... Jade was in brittle shape. Black Pearl was on the tough side. The two Diamonds were lean.. and even Onyx was on the thin side. (Fools Seldom Differ looks to be in cool shape.) But it is to be expected, given it's still December.

December 18, 2017 - Papineau Roadside (Chris)

Very cool crag. Consolation Pirze varied from 3+ to 4+ depending on the line. Finished up with Clip and Go, which I think might have been a bit thin on ice, but was sifficient.

December 18, 2017 - Granary Lake

From Klaus at the Birch Lodge on Granary Lake

December 17, 2017 - Azure Mtn, Adirondacks(Pascal and Marco)

Well, our attempt to reach the main cliff failed but we found the beginner’s Sidewalk Café Area. And it was perfect because we were happy to top rope like beginners. Going back to explore the main crag this Wednesday, stay tuned!

December 17, 2017 - Eagle's Nest (Robert Hughson)

The Curtain is looking great. Dirty Harry is pretty mixed. Roller Coaster was decent.

December 16, 2017 - Watt Lake (Mugur, Chris, AK)

Beauty bluebird day. And crisp. Watt Lake is in thin, but the ice that is on the face is dense and well bonded. The face holds snow, making for an added challenge. (Right after the trailhead, stay right to avoid wet feet.)

Madhouse Bryant - pretty bare.
Fair-Weather Climber - pretty bare, with a bush for added challenge.
Giddy Girls - awsome.
New Diesel - in good shape for the left exit.
Holy Hannah - not close to touching down. Need some serious thaw-freeze for it to form up.
Prisoner 24601 - thin exit pillar, maybe bring some gear to supplement the bolts.

December 10, 2017 - Eagle's Nest (DD)

Thin conditions in Bamcroft today. Looks like the ice that formed two weeks ago became unbonded, and the new ice that is forming hasn't quite re-attached the outer shell. Lots of hollow ice and water flowing behind almost everything. 

Lower Rollercoaster - thin, delaminated ice, no pro. We scrambled up the backside to the ledge. Upper Rollercoaster - turf sticks and enough solid ice to squeeze through the notch to the top.

We didn't lead anything on the Curtain - didn't look like there was much solid pro. Dropped top ropes on the right side of Men Without Hats (the left side was a hollow tube with water spilling down it) and the right side of Hollow Victory. The Jetstream pillar has formed up, but is candled and delaminated up top.

Nothing else was in.

December 10, 2017 (Daniel back from the Rockies)

The snow pack did not cooperate, so we had to stay away from avi prone slopes. Opted for the good old Ghost. RBD is always a classic. Cryophobia is my new favourite mixed rig!

December 09, 2017 (Jeremy and Stas, breathin in fresh Rockies air)

Weeping Wall is in good shape. Can you guess what else we climbed? What a treat to climb this testpiece on TR.

December 08, 2017 (Justin)

Just passing thorugh my old stompin grounds. Didn't have a chance to swing the tools, bit figured I'd share a pic.

November 21, 2017 - Eagle's Nest

Unverified... picture could be a tease... who will be the first on etempted to drive out in search of ice???